Yorkshire

Unlike most other places, you've got a choice of climbing in Yorkshire:  gritstone or limestone.  Both offer excellent venues and good rock.  Personally I prefer the grit, but at our last club meet there was a mutiny so I ended up climbing on limestone one day and grit the next.  There's two guide books, Yorkshire Gritstone and Yorkshire Limestone.  There's also a bouldering guide as well.  The BMC guidebooks have come in for some stick recently but both of these are excellent, wish I could say the same for some of the others.

Almscliff

Twistleton Scars

Almscliff

This is the major gritstone crag in Yorkshire.  Look at the map in the front of the guide book and there's God pointing at Almscliff.  Lots of routes in all grades, plus a healthy bouldering scene.  Ample parking at the side of the road and only 5 minutes walk in if that.  The routes are easy to find.  What more do you want?

Nice roadside location

The crag is in two tiers, Low Man and High Man.

High Man

 

Square Chimney & Whisky Crack

MVS, 4b

A three star route and very good.  Back and foot up chimney, then hand jam up the crack above.  To do it in more style, bridge out up the initial chimney.  Note that the old guide lists this as a severe.  It's a bit stiff for a severe.

      Square chimney and whisky crack
 

Pram Pushers Paradise

VS, 5a

Good route.  No gear on the initial slab but then you're not likely to come off on this.  The crux is the pull out on to the top.  Hard but well protected in horizontal break beneath the roof.

 

 

Low Man Easy Way

D The obvious easy big fat leftwards slanting crack.  Good for beginners.

 

 

Whisky Wall

E3, 5b The actual crux is gaining the first big ledge.  Nice balancey moves up the slab follow, but its not that much easier than getting on the ledge.  I'm glad I didn't lead it as the gear is pretty much none existent.
      Whisky wall and the Easy Way

 

       

Twistleton Scar

   

The guide book says this is a good crag for a first visit.  I agree.  Park up on the verge by the side of the road and pay the £1.20 (2003) parking fee.  Contrary to what the guide book says you don't (at present) have to ask permission to climb, but you have to write your registration number in the book so the farmer knows who's paid.  The crag is rather obvious and is a 5 - 10 minute walk from the car.

Twistleton Scar and car park

There's several buttresses but I only climbed on the main buttress, so there's plenty left for another day.  The crag is limestone and despite initial appearances is surprisingly solid.  The climbs are easy to find.

Main Buttress

 

Serenity

VS 5a

Very polished which makes the traverse "interesting".  The crux is protected by a bomber thread.

 

 

Evening Star

S Really pleasant climbing.  There's one suspect flake at half height and you need a runner, but behind the flake isn't that good.  George assures me he found one right next to the flake.

 

 

Curving Crack

VS 5a Hard and polished.  The crux is the start.  Once above it gets easier but gear is a bit thin until you get to the main crack. 

Curving Crack

 

 

Bottle Neck

HS 4a The corner with a bulge in it.  Quite a bit harder than 4a.  More like VS 4c.  Gymnastics are required to get over the bulge.  Need a size 4 friend to protect the crux, my size 3.5 fell out.

Bottle Neck is the obviuos capped chimney/corner

 

 

Left Hand Crack

V Diff I haven't done it but it doesn't look like v diff territory to me.  Two others who ought to be able to lead v diff OK backed off.

Left hand and Right Hand cracks

 

Broken White

V Diff Not a bad climb.  Can't see why the guide books says to avoid it.  Fairly graded.

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