Twistleton Scar |
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The guide book says this is a good crag for a first visit. I agree. Park up on the verge by the side of the road and pay the £1.20 (2003) parking fee. Contrary to what the guide book says you don't (at present) have to ask permission to climb, but you have to write your registration number in the book so the farmer knows who's paid. The crag is rather obvious and is a 5 - 10 minute walk from the car.
There's several buttresses but I only climbed on the main buttress, so there's plenty left for another day. The crag is limestone and despite initial appearances is surprisingly solid. The climbs are easy to find. |
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Serenity |
VS 5a |
Very polished which makes the traverse "interesting". The crux is protected by a bomber thread.
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Evening Star |
S | Really pleasant climbing.
There's one suspect flake at half height and you need a runner, but behind
the flake isn't that good. George assures me he found one right next
to the flake.
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Curving Crack |
VS 5a | Hard and polished. The crux
is the start. Once above it gets easier but gear is a bit thin until
you get to the main crack.
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Bottle Neck |
HS 4a | The corner with a bulge in it.
Quite a bit harder than 4a. More like VS 4c. Gymnastics are
required to get over the bulge. Need a size 4 friend to protect the
crux, my size 3.5 fell out.
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Left Hand Crack |
V Diff | I haven't done it but it doesn't look like v diff territory to me. Two others who ought to be able to lead v diff OK backed off. | |
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Broken White |
V Diff | Not a bad climb. Can't see why the guide books says to avoid it. Fairly graded. | |