Cornwall

Cornwall has got to be the best place to climb in the UK.  The granite is impeccable with routes and crags to suite everyone's taste.  This is a guide to climbing in Cornwall (Bosigran, Chair Ladder, Gurnard Head, Lands End, Sennen, Roche, Pordenack Point, Carn Barra).  Lots of pictures (click for larger view).  I've split the page into two so it loads faster.  Just click on the relevant hyper link.

Bosigran

Gurnard Head

Pellitras Point (picture only)

Land's End

Cheesewring

Tater-du

Bosigran
Bosigran main cliff This has got to be the best crag in the country.  Perfect granite, non tidal, easy approach, south facing, routes of all grades from diff to E silly.  Mostly multi-pitch but single pitch stuff at the landward end (Alison's Rib area) that can be top roped for beginners.
Commando Ridge

 

 

 V Diff

 

 

 Do it at night, in the rain, in army boots, carrying  a pack and rifle with somebody firing machine guns over your head to appreciate it.  If you can get to the start, you can do the route as you've done the hardest bit.  If the tide's in then climb up onto the ridge from near the bottom. however, on a neap tide and with a calm sea you can get in to the start at high tide.  The 1st pitch is a row of jugs, it looks far worse than it is.  A real 3* route.  If you move together then about 2½ hours is a reasonable time (not including getting down to the start).  The only thing wrong with this route is it eventually finishes!  It really is that good.  Make sure your ropework is up to traverses and descents though.
    Commando Ridge Commando Ridge - start at bottom of P1Commando Ridge Commando Ridge - P1
    Commando Ridge Commando Ridge Commando Ridge Commando Ridge
    Commando Ridge Commando Ridge Commando Ridge Commando Ridge
Dong

 

 

 S, 4a, 4a, 4b

 

 

 This has got to be one of the very best routes in the country at any grade.  The first pitch is nothing special but the top two more than make up for it.  There's crack climbing, bridging, slab climbing, the odd hand jam and a mantelshelf, the gear's good and the belay ledges are spacious.  What more could you ask for.  OK then, you can do a VS variation on the top pitch if you want.  The consequences of falling off whilst mantleshelfing off the spike on pitch 3 don't bear thinking about (it brings tears to my eyes writing this).
  Dong Starting up 2nd pitch of DongDong, still on 2nd pitch, get ready to bridgeThe famous mantleshelfTop pitch of Dong. VS variation is to the right, i.e. straight up
Red Slab

(direct variation)

 HS 4b

 

 Good route but top of the grade for HS.  Guide book says two pitches but run them together.

 
    Lookibg down Red slab direct from about 3 quarters height
Black Slab diff Easy and well protected
    Black Slab
Anvil Chorus

 

 

 HVS, 4b, 4b, 5a, 4c

 

 

 HVS, not VS.  Cracking route, bulges, jams, lay backs, traverses, its got the lot.  First pitch is polished but very soon gets better.  The third pitch is the crux, but the sting is in the tail, its the move up after the traverse, not the climbing of the twin cracks.  Can be protected by a 3 and half friend in the horizontal break.  Top pitch is a push over after that.   You might as well run pitches 1 and 2 together, can't see the point belaying till you get below the twin cracks.
  Anvil Chorus - pitch 1 (start) Coming to the little roof on pitch 2 (good gear) Aha, pitch 3...
  There's plenty of gear but stopping to put it in is harder than caryying on The crux on pitch 3, at this point I was down climbing to put more gear in before having another go at it  
Door Post

 

 HS 4a, 4b, 4a

 

 Truely worthy of 3 stars.  Grading is good.  The traverse on the underclings on pitch 1 is outstanding.  Plenty of gear.  Exposure on the top two pitches is outragous but the climbing is great and the gear's all there.  Note that pitch 1 (rising traverse) is getting a bit polished and is very often damp in one place.
  Vickie on 1st belay stance of Door Post Coming to the top of Door Post (looking down pitch 3)  
Little Brown Jug

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 VS 4b, 4a, 5a

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 Top of the grade.  Check the belay stance for pitch 1 as people on Door Post might have pinched it if they belay 6' too far right.  The second pitch is a rising traverse, it looks bereft of gear from the stance but there is in fact plenty, you just can't see it till you get to it.  The peg on pitch 3 is really dangerous, can the next person up please take a peg hammer and replace it (July 2003).  Once you get to the top of the slab there's an easy scramble off to the left but the route goes straight up.  This is far easier than it looks.  A 3½ friend placed at maximum stretch in the crack will protect it.  An excellent route.

semi hanging belay, P1 Little Brown JugRichard on the top pitch of Little Brown Jug
Trapeze

 

 HVS 5a

 

 The Peck Variation is superb.  Go up then a stunning hand traverse under the big block.  The hand traverse is actually really easy.  Number 4 Friend useful for the top of the crack (3½ is right on its tips).  Protection is very good
    Me leading Trapeze Davin on TrapezeDavin contemplating the hand traverse on the Peck Variation of Trapeze
       

Gurnard Head

      
Easy to find, about 10 minutes walk from a pub that you park opposite.  The rock's not granite, its greenstone, sound and good gear.
Right Angle HS, -, 4a, 4b Stunning route.  Easiest route on the crag and committing as you traverse in then down climb.  Final pitch is a 40 m monster but the huge corner is quite easy.  Inescapable so both climbers need to be able to lead HS but you can put a less experienced climber in the middle of a rope of three, they'll have a rope in front and behind them on the traverses.  Gear is good and plenty of it.  1st stance is a big ledge with a huge spike for a belay, 2nd stance is a nut belay on a little ledge.  Rock is sound. A great route.

Note.  Word is out about this route.  On a bank holiday weekend you're in a Catch 22.  Get there early when its in shade and possibly damp, or get there later and queue for ages.
1st pitch of Right angle A bit of exposure on the 1st pitch Right angle, looking out from 1st stance across to second pitch Right Angle, 2nd stance
Looking down the big corner on Right Angle      
       

Pellitras Point
I've not been there but here's what it looks like (looking NW across Porth Loe)

Land's End

The only route I've done here is Land's End Long Climb (v diff).  The pitches are short and route finding is quite easy.  Good but the jump at the top (avoidable) is ~2.4 m.  Very much top of the grade (felt more like severe/HS on a couple of moves).

Start of Lands End Long climb The bad step anear the top of Land's End Long Climb. 2.4 m, and you'll probably die if you land short  

   

Cheesewring Quarry

Best avoided.  Routes are very poorly protected and there are some dubious blocks.  Only tried Simanon Direct (HVS 4c, 4b), a 3* route and that was enough to put us off.  Bailed after 1st pitch due to no gear.  None of the other climbs look any better either.  If the whole quarry was bolted it would make a great sport climbing venue.

Tater-du

Greenstone (sound).  Tidal, access 3hrs either side of low tide.  Plenty of parking at Lemorna Cove,  (£5 for whole day in 2007), as well as a café and ice cream shop. 30 minute walk along the coastal path.  Guide book describes the official approach (scrambling through black thorn bushes). By far and away the easiest access is to go down the lighthouse steps, turn right at the bottom, walk 50m along cliff tops and then abseil in.  This access method is banned as you're not allowed on the lighthouse steps. However, not that I'm encouraging anyone to trespass of course, the lighthouse is unmanned.  The guide book says the abseil is 33m but you can just do it on a single, doubled up 60m rope without relying on the stretch.

Tater-du      
       
Commando Special VS -, 4c OK route but a one move wonder.  More like a severe with one 4c move (well protected with big hex and cam) where you swing up through the roof.
    Roof on Commando Special  
       
Martell Slab VS 4c, -, 4b Brilliant route.  Worthy of its 3 stars.  As guide book says, first pitch is top of grade and sustained.  Gear is OK but could be better.  2nd pich is a scramble.  Delightful climbing on 3rd pitch which is well protected and varied.
    Martell Slab pitch 1  
       
Gulley Route S -, 4a Crap.  OK 1st pitch up the ramp but crux of 2nd pitch is hard, unprotected and exposed.  One to avoid.
       
Dorna HS 4b Obvious crack climb up the slab.  Very good route.  Sustained 4b but well protected.  Ignore what the guide book says about traversing left under a roof.  The roof is no longer there, it has been replaced by a fresh rock scar and a ledge.
       

 

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