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La Cremerie
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| To get there Take road from Chamonix towards Argentiere. Just as
you're coming to Argentiere, take the road off to the right towards the
Grand Montets cable car. You pass the road leading up to Les Chosalets
(campsite in summer). After 200 m turn right and follow the track up
towards the helicopter pad (CMBH). . |
| Park up here, there's plenty of room. Follow
the path up through the woods for about 15 minutes to the climbing.
Altitude = 1340 m. The climbs are located just below the snout of
the Argentiere glacier. Grid ref 34070934. |
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What's it like?
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| Firstly, it aint nothing like Scotland. The area is very popular
with instructed groups. I don't know what its like at weekends but I
suspect it's chaos. It was busy when we were there on a Monday with
groups (many English) but was very quiet on Tuesday as the groups had all moved
elsewhere. |
| The ice is sound and thick (when I was there) and the angle varies from
45º to 80º. Climbs vary from French technical 2 to 4 (Scottish III -
V), most are French 3. There's 4 main cascades and each one is plenty
wide enough for several parties. Tree belays at the top and along the
sides of the routes. No need to bring rock gear and pegs, just ice
screws and slings. In total the climbs are between 300-400' high i.e.
2 -3 pitches. You can either ab off or walk off the top down through
the woods although if you don't know the way down and there's no tracks to
follow through the snow I'd advise abbing off (plenty of trees down the
sides of the routes). The climbing is not sustained, 20' high steep
bits followed by easier angled stuff, then another 20' steep bit etc. |
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The first climb you come to is La Cremerie, easily done
in two pitches. The right hand side is easiest. |
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Next along is Chantilly. The central section taken
direct goes at French 4 and is the steepest climb in the area.
It's easier (3) on the right. |
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| The last climb is Moby Dick which is the
highest climb and about 400' high. |
| It's possible to do all the climbs in a day if you're really quick
but more likely you'll need to days. |
Summary
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| The only negative aspect of La Cremerie is its popularity, but pick
your days and it'll be fine. The routes are not serious and
despite their high grading by Scottish standards are OK for beginners.
Its simple enough to set up a top rope if you want. For leaders,
no worries, just make sure you've got plenty of ice screws (at least 6).
It really is the ideal place for a first day on French ice. |
Guide book
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| Cascades autour du Mont-Blanc. Tome1 Vallee de Chamonix, Vallee
de l'Eau Noire, Vallee de Trient. Francois Damilano, Godefroy
Perroux. ISBN 2-9509868-1-1.
In French.
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