Routes - Wales

I've done quite a few routes in my time but some stand out more than others.  The following routes are therefore either good, or bad.  Fortunately we seem to remember the good times more than the bad.  If I've got a picture of the route (unlikely but getting better) it'll be here.  Its unfortunate though that photography and climbing don't really go together, you can do one or the other, not both at the same time, hence pictures are a little thin.  This page is not intended as a substitute for the relevant guide book, it merely gives additional information on routes that I've personally climbed.  Guides for Tremadog, Tryfan, Idwal and Lliwedd.

Tremadog

      
  Shadrack VS, 4b, 4b, 4c Not a bad route but its difficult to protect the first pitch (off width crack) unless you've got some large (size 4) friends.  God knows how its possible to go up the inside of the crack - the guide book says either inside or outside. Shadrack, crux
  Y-Broga HVS 5a, 4b, 4c Welsh for "the frog". The first pitch looks easy but isn't, layback, think of England and go.  The second pitch is sustained, the third a one move wonder.  Supposedly, its the most fallen off route at Tremadog.
  Christmas Curry HS Make sure you do the Micah variation which takes it up to HS. Micah variation
Ogwen - Idwal Slabs    
  Idwal Slabs   The way off the top of the slabs is not obvious.  So,  scramble up and leftwards, heading towards the left hand (facing in) edge of the slabs.  You now have two choices.  You'll see a big block with tat on it, this is the abseil option.  The alternative is a hard and in places exposed, downwards scramble, the path is obvious.  You may wish to rope up.  The final option is to continue upwards to the top of Glyder Fawr.
     
  Ordinary Route Diff Good easy route.  Plenty of gear initially but thins out towards the top.  Possible in the wet.
  Charity V diff Very polished, more smears than edges.  Not a wise choice in the wet.
Charity, pitch 2. And what do you do when its this wet? ...Abb off

Tryfan

      
  Grooved Arete H V Diff The guide book's right, its bloody hard for a V Diff.  Not that you need a guide book, go along Heather Terrace until you see "GA", then go up.  Its not the sort of route for doing in the wet, its too polished for that.  We moved together all the way and put in one belay on the Chess Board.  The stance is small so its best if the second leads through.  The hardest bit is coming up the grooves to the Haven, but its not as exposed as the chess board. third pitch  pitch 7, the groove above the "chess board"
  1st Pinnacle Rib V Diff Cracking route, better than Grooved Arete.  The Yellow Slab is a pretty much unprotected 4b at the bottom but there's gear once you've gone up about 10 feet.  This is not v diff territory especially in the wet as its really polished smears.  Try it in big boots if you want a laugh.  The slab can be avoided by stepping round to the right a few feet.  When you get to the top, have a go at Thompsons Chimney (HS). 

Will "go" in the wet and it is perfectly feasible to practice moving together on (if moving together take as many slings as you can lay your hands on, threads abound).  The first pitch is the hardest but well protected and the difficulties ease as soon as this is done.
The start on Heather Terrace "FPR" scratched on the rock Looking down the first pitch On some easy slabs above the first pitch Just keep going up
Easy slabs, then another steeper bit - good stuff Lens distortion, the slabs aren't really that flat More threads, still moving together The yellow slab, in "moist" conditions and in walking boots, not a day to climb it
A few feet to the right of the yellow slab is another slab and crack. Climb the left hand side, then traverse right and up. Not much gear, but not hard and a really good belay at the top if you need it Richard coming up to right of yellow slab (2nd pinacle ridge route actually), again the lens makes it look less steep Back on route again, cracks above the yellow slab, good climbing
Richard coming up these cracks Looking back down to the pinacle    

Lliwedd      
  Far East Cracks HS (VS 4c for direct finish)

Appalling route.  Wet, vegetated, loose in places, no gear.  Avoid like the plague.

      Approaching N Face of Lliwedd Far East Cracks
  Avalanche V Diff

Very serious and far from a three star route in my book.  Loose and vegetated in places.  Continually steep.  This route will scare the living daylights out of a v diff leader, we struggled and we can both lead HVS.  If you're not confident of setting up a multi-pitch abseil retreat then don't do this route. Route finding isn't that bad.  Don't even think about doing it in the wet, nor doing it moving together.  If there's someone already on it (unlikely on Lliwedd) then pick another route as there is a big risk of stone fall.  My advice is to go and do a route on the east face of Tryfan, they're far better.

Avoid. 
Pitch 1. Often wet so don't worry about it Richard moving off up pitch 1. At this point we were moving together Richard off route and nearing the top of pitch 2. We should have been a few feet left, on the quartz. By this time we were belaying conventionally Somewhere. Long since lost count of the pitches
Easy ground at last - Terminal arete
Nice views looking down route from summit      

Gower      
My Gower guide has expanded a bit and now has its own page.  Either use the menu or click below tofollow the hyperlink.

Gower climbing guides

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