| I've been to Scotland on two summer trips, only one of which was a climbing trip. Unfortunately, the weather and the midges conspired to make sure that we didn't get any climbing done, hence this review (with one exception) is limited to winter routes. | |||
Glen Coe |
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| Anaoch Eagach | II (winter) Grade I scramble in summer |
By far and away the best
scramble on the UK mainland. Normally done east to west. It
takes about an hour to follow the path up to the top and the start (and
that's if you're fit) and another 2-3 hours to do the route plus getting
down again. In summer it is a superb scramble, it makes Crib Goch
look like a walk in the park. Sustained, very narrow in places and
exposed if you keep to the crest throughout. The guide book says its
not escapable. This isn't quite true. You can escape off down
to the north but then you've got a hell of walk round.
It's not that hard in winter so long as you know what you're doing. Only one abseil is required and you probably won't even need to, this is at the rock step right near the start. Move together on the route, if you pitch it then make sure you bring food for a week. In winter it is definitely not a route for hill walkers. Winter or summer, make sure you pick a day with a bit of visibility. Its not hard by any means in poor visibility but the views and situations are outstanding, just make sure you get the opportunity to appreciate them. |
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| Forked Gulley Right hand | II/III | Stob Coire Nan Lochan.
A good introduction to steeper snow. Two pitches. Stonking belay on spikes at top of first pitch. |
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| Dorsal Arete | II/III | Stob Coire Nan Lochan. Rather than do the standard start, make it more interesting by doing the alternative start which takes the buttress direct (III). Just pick a likely looking route and go. |
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| Boomerang Gulley | II/III
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Stob Coire Nan Lochan. A steeper snow plod. The steepest section is at the bottom. Watch out for the snow conditions though. |
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Anaoch Mor |
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| Left Twin | III | Good, very good. Two steep icefalls provide the main interest. The first belay can take some finding, the 2nd belay is on the exit slopes and is an in-situ thread - solid. Left Twin | |
| Right Twin | II (supposedly) | Not much different to Left Twin and certainly not a grade easier. Big cornices when I did it. Take pegs for belays. | |
| Tunnel Vision | III | Easy first pitch. We took the right hand exit which is slightly easier but still a solid III. The first stance is a peg where the gulley forks. On 50 m ropes I had to belay on the exit slopes but I suspect that I wouldn't have been able to do it in two pitches on 60 m ropes. | |
Applecross- |
Beinn Bhan |
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| Traverse of A'Chioch | II | Good route, mostly turf with some mixed climbing. Comes into condition quickly, just needs a good freeze. Careful route finding needed on the descent into the notch, keep slightly right of the crest. Pictures of route | |
Liathach |
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| George | III, 4 | In good nick when Poachers and Salmon Leap were no where near complete. Cave pitch is unique in Scotland. Route has it all, snow slopes, ice falls and mixed. Crux is mixed climbing above the cave pitch, short lived torqueing. Make sure that any ski poles are stowed inside rucksack for the cave pitch and be prepared to squirm. Pictures of route | |
Beinn Eighe |
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| East Buttress | diff | Diff? not a IV? When I
did it (two days after "George", above) there wasn't a flake of snow or
ice on it. A pure rock climb. Square cut quartzite holds,
plenty of gear. Steep pitches between rubble strewn ledges.
Crux is right at the very top, an off width slanting corner crack.
Easy if you jam it, hard otherwise. Take a couple of big hexes and
you'll be able to aid it if needed. No, I lied. The crux, well
to be honest, the scariest bit, is the traverse in across the broad ledge.
There's one bad step on it which is very exposed.
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Cairngorms - Coire an T-Sneachda |
Pronounced "korrie in tchach-ka" | ||
| 50 minute walk in from
funicular car park along a good path. Full ranger service at the car
park including weather forecast and avalanche forecast.
Unfortunately its popular. We counted 30+ walking in mid week, the
ranger said there were more than 120 people in there at the weekend.
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| Crotched Gulley | I/II | Easy to find.
Very thin when I did it, top of first pitch was grade III. Second
and third pitches are snow plods.
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| Jacob's Ladder | I | Obvious big
gulley on the right of the Mess of Pottage. In hard nick when I did.
Solid grade I if not easier all the way to the top. Exit is the hard
bit. Slightly easier if you go right at the top.
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| Fiacaill Ridge | II | Very good ridge
route between Coires an T-Sneada and Lochain. Can't miss it.
Will go in any conditions. Technical grade 4 moves if you stick to
the crest but all difficulties can be avoided on the right.
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Cairngorms - Coire an Lochain |
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| Went up to have a go at the Vent but we were too slow and people were already on it. Did a grade I route not in guide book on west flank of corrie. Started from a little lochan. Water ice over rocks followed by a snow gulley. Here we traversed right and went up an easy mixed buttress instead although its possible to all the way up the gulley at grade I. Watch out for dodgy snow conditions as slab will build if wind is from west. | |||
