Routes - Ireland

This page is a guide for rock climbing in the Gap of Dunloe over in SW Ireland. There are details for the routes I've climbed on Bothan and Brennan's Leap, as well as photos of the routes. There's shed loads more crags in the gap that I never got chance to climb on. Highly recommended area, stunning scenery and great routes on impeccable rock.

The guide book is out of print, however an on-line copy is available from http://www.climbing.ie

Bothan
	This is about a 15-20 minute walk from Kate Kearney's Cottage. It's what you might call an afternoon crag as it faces west. It didn't get any sun on it till about mid day when we were there in April. Single pitch routes, walk off the top. The rock is sand stone but nothing like the crap you get down at Harrison's. This stuff is solid as a rock (sorry about the pun). Good belays at the top and excellent views.
	Spider	S	The guide book is correct, there's not much gear on it
	Back or Brain	VS 4b	Good little route with a sting in the tail. The crux is at the top and needs a bit of thought. Protection is adequate, you can either protect the crux with a small Friend (approx #1) or with two poor nuts.

	Agent Orange	HS 4b	Cracking route, worthy of stars. In my view the best route on the crag. Watch out for a loose block at the top belay. Its very tempting to put a nut in the obvious crack but the block wobbles. Plenty of other gear about though.
	Adrian's Route	VS 4c	Didn't fancy this one. The start is very hard and unprotected, some of the blocks are suspect. Make your own mind up.

Brennan's Leap
	Why bother parking at Kate Kearney's and walking for 10 minutes when you can park under the crag and belay from the car? Bear in mind though that the road is narrow and frequented by horse and traps so in the summer months its better to park at Kate Kearney's and walk up. This is a morning (east facing) crag, single pitch with some bolts on the top for belays, easy walk off. Route finding is really easy from the guide book descriptions. Click on the two thumb nails below for topos.
	Cronin's Crack	HS 4b	The obvious crack line running up the crag. Steep and sustained but exceptionally well protected.
	Daffodils	HVS 5a	Next major crack line to right of Cronin's Crack. Well protected.
	Fat Boys Don't Fall	E1 5c	Between Cronin's Crack and Daffodils. Nice route, balancy. Crux is a one move wonder at three quarter height.
	Rush Hour	HVS 5b	The start is the crux. Not bad at all. Thuggery to start with and an airy traverse at the top.
	Yankee	S	On the right hand part of the crag. Soft touch for a severe.

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