Routes - Gower

Here's a guide to climbing in the Gower.  Guides and pictures for routes at Three cliffs Bay, Pobbles Bay, Great Tor, Shire Combe and Rhossili (Fall bay Buttress and King Wall).  Loads more pictures on Gower climbing pictures page.

Three Cliffs Bay

  
Three Cliffs Bay is tidal and is only climbable three hours either side of low tide.  Climbing is on the seaward side of a prominent three pinacled cliff.  You belay off an immaculate sandy beach.  All climbs are single pitch and you either walk off or scramble back to the beach.  Can be popular.  For more pictures go to the Gower climbing pictures page.

Three Cliffs BayBelay off the beach

Three Cliffs        Selected routes on Three Cliffs
Arch Slab VS 4c The guide book  says Scavenger is the route to do.  Well, do it if you must and you like queuing, but Arch Slab, just to the left of the cave is excellent and a far better route.  Climb the corner, then move right just above the cave roof, then up.  Take small wires.  There's a thread on the traverse.    The higher you go before traversing right the harder it is.
Inverted V HVS 4c 4c is right but there's plenty of gear on it so HVS is a bit much. Very good.

Initiation Flake S Soft touch severe
Plumb Line V Diff Longest route on the cliff. 
Joggled Wall Direct HS 4b Nice little route, take the over-lap direct.  Protect the crux with either a 2 or 3 Friend in a pocket.
Scavenger VS 4b

(now VS 4c)

 Over rated, over graded and polished.  Its so well protected you could fit two racks in it.  Sustained 4a moves, no 4b moves.  Footwork is tricky as the smears are polished but positive hand holds all the way.  I'd grade it at only a severe.  Try climbing it at night to avoid the queues (I'm serious!). 

How on earth the new guide book makes this route VS 4c I do not know.  If you lead this and think you can lead VS 4c you're going to have the shock of your life.
    Alf on ScavengerAlf on ScavengerThis is where it isYep, I'm serious, we did it at night! (Rich coming to the top)

Karen on ScavengerKaren on ScavengerKaren on Scavenger
Under Milk Wood VS A cavers route.  I'm not big but my shoulders wouldn't fit through the hole (poor caving technique I was told).  Gear is very good but totally superfluous when you get into the narrow tunnel.  Take minimal gear and have it on a bandolier, you'll need to shove the gear above your head in tunnel.

Pobbles Bay

    
Gwyn's Route VS 5a Pobbles Bay is just to the right of Three Cliffs (looking towards land) and in fact it can almost be considered synonymous with three cliffs.  Gwyn's Route is just around the corner from three cliffs, only 50 m away.

Its like a boulder problem.  Make sure you take the three overlaps DIRECT.  No cheating by sneaking off right or left.  Route is short and the gear is good.  There's a back up of a soft landing in the gloriously soft sand beneath the climb.  The three crux moves are hard, but the gear's good.  Not serious so try it, especially if the tide's coming in too fast to do Scavenger, this one is just that bit higher up the beach.

Who needs to go to Spain when you've got hot rock here! Tim and Gwyn's Route Mirriam on 2nd overlap, Gwyn's Route

Great Tor

    

Great Tor is on the right hand side (looking out to sea) of Three Cliffs Bay.  It forms the boundary between Three Cliffs Bay and Oxwich Bay.  The upper tier (described here) is non-tidal. 

Great Tor. South Edge is the right hand sky line The classic East Ridge of Great Tor. Those with sharp eye sight will notice it's popularity
South Edge HS 4a Straight forward route up the right edge of the slab.  Good gear, rock more sound than it looks.

South Edge HA 4a. Not quite as intimidating as the camera angle makes it look
East Ridge V Diff 4c

(now S)

 A strange grade.  Its a v diff but the 2nd pitch has a 4c boulder problem start, although this can be avoided entirely by keeping to the ridge crest on the left.  The guide book says 4 pitches, but its barmy to do it in 4, run 2 and 3 together.

Very nice and enjoyable climb.  Ideal introduction to multi-pitch climbing as the belay ledges are large enough to have a party on.  Walk off from the top.

Yet another barmy upgrade in the new guide book.  It is not a severe.

Pitch 1 start. Up the crack in the steep face. Not as hard as it looks.Kim on pitch 1Adrian setting up the belay at the top of pitch 1

Pitch 1-2 belay ledge. The 4c move goes straight up the middle of the slab. See what I mean about parties on the belay ledgesPitch 2. Note there's gear on the hard slab (4c move). Avoid on the left if you wish

Looking down to the 1st stance from top of pitch 3

Kim and the start of pitch 4 (our third pitch). Not as hard as it looks, its a row of jugs.

The whole route with parties on both stances

Shire Combe

    

As you stand on the cliff tops looking out over Three Cliffs and Pobbles Bay, Shire Combe is the headland on the left.  Its further than it looks.  You never know until you try, so off we headed to Shire Combe.  Unfortunately, in this case the reality was a bit of a let down.  There's two areas to climb on, a headland and a slab.  The routes on the headland bit don't look that solid at the top.  The slab is sound but not inspiring.  There's some routes in a chimney on the left that don't look too bad apart from the rather suspect chock stones in the top.  Of the slab itself, only one route looked worthwhile (actually it looked fairly good) - Anemone Wall (VS).  Decision time.  Do the one route or dash back to Three Cliffs and get a couple of routes in before the tide comes in - we dashed back.

Shire Combe - the headland area   Shire Combe - the slab   Shire Combe - the slab
     

Rhossili (Fall Bay)

  
Park at Rhossili, either public car park (£2.00 but free for motor bikes - 2004 prices) or church hall (make a donation).  Walk down paths to GR 415875, then left along a rather narrow path below the upper tier.  DON'T FALL OFF THE PATH!  You go round the corner and arrive on a big terrace.  At low tide, carry straight on, down to the beach then walk round to the left.  Cliff is in two tiers with a large terrace between the two.  Upper cliff is non tidal, lower cliff is tidal.  At medium tide you can abb down to the lower tier from some massive blocks on the terrace and start climbing from ledges.  Loads of pictures in Gower climbing pictures  The Great Cleft (diff) is a useful feature for finding your way around the lower tier.  Not as busy as Three Cliffs Bay and the beach is just as good.

Fall Bay dead ahead, go down a little further then either head left along the path or straight down to the beachUpper tierLower tier from terraceLower tier from terrace0

Lower Tier routes - click on picture to enlarge
Vik HS 4b Solid VS
Freya S 4a

now HS 4b

 Well protected but a bold move at half height.  A bit stiff for a severe.

I was right, new guide book gives it HS 4b
King Wall V Diff

(now S)

 Easy

The guide new book is kidding.  Its easy for a v diff yet the new book gives it a severe.
Ragnarok S 4a

(now HS 4a)

 Long, steep but well protected.  Just when you think "this is a bit stiff for a severe" a good hold materialises.  Continually steep and interesting, climbing up an obvious groove.  Take lots of wires in the 1 - 5 size range.  If it wasn't so well protected it would be a HS.  Very good.  Definitely one 4b move.

Just follow the groove upwards, steep but plenty of gear. Click for larger picture Ragnarok, right hand of the two routes with people on
     
Fafnir S 4a Well protected.  Excellent route.  Go up crack, then left underneath the roof.  The moves here take a bit of working out but its all there.  Recommended.
Vorder S 4a Steep but well protected.  Rock is very sharp
Idun S Oh what a laugh the new guide book authors are having.  I've been giving them stick for over grading routes then this one pops up.  Take one look at it, it aint severe territory.   A severe then a VS leader backed off it.  I had go, fell off twice then struggled up it.  HVS 5b more like.

Idun
Geiffion HS 4b The first 15 feet are VS 4c.
Balder VS 5a Impeccable slab climbing
Vanir VS 4c Good but don't bother carrying large nuts, cams or hex's.  Take lots of wires in the very small category, i.e. zeros and RPs.

This is all the gear you need, click for larger view
Upper tier routes
Isis and Osiris - both VS SW Diedre (HVS 5a) Haven't done many of these for various reasons.  Isis, Osiris and SW Deidre are obviously stunning lines.

 
Isis VS 4c

(Now HVS 5a)

 The obvious corner crack in the middle of the cliff.  At the overhangs traverse right to a cave.  Climb overhangs at weakest point, then trend left.

Isis (left of climbers)
Osiris VS 4c Awesome route, well deserving of its stars. Towards right hand edge of cliff, right under the huge overhangs.  Follow groove to overhangs at their widest point.  Traverse right then pull up through overhang at weakest point.  Crux is a steep bit before you get to the traverse.  Thread runners at start of traverse, either 3, 3½, or 4 Friend to protect the second on the traverse.  There's peg runners on the traverse but they're below your feet!???

Osiris Climbers on Rhea - HVS 5a - between Isis and Osiris
South West Diedre HVS 5a

 

(VS 4c variation)

 The rather obvious SW facing corner groove that's above you when you're on the great terrace above King Wall.  Climb corner and groove to ledge.  Step back left and up to small overhang.  Over this and finish up crack above. 

Variation.  From ledge go right and follow corner crack.

Devil's Truck

    
I personally haven't climbed here but a load of people from the RMC went there the one day.  Just along the coast (eastwards) a bit from King Wall.  Non tidal.  Good for beginners (top rope).

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